DIGITAL PATTERN CUTTING
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Pattern cutting underpins the whole of the clothing industry. Its as simple as no pattern, no production. I have no 'cool' pictures to show you, just the promise that pattern cutting and grading are skills worth developing and will give you the edge. For books to accompany the courses visit DigitalPatternCutting.com
​Pattern cutting is such a hidden activity /trade /skill /call it what you will, but is vital to the manufacture of clothes. It is the blue print, the template, the starting point, be it card or digital or contained within the hands of the bespoke tailor. And if the pattern is well thought through, perfectly executed and clear, the rest of the production process flows well. My delight then to discover a podcast blog all about pattern making.  Caroline and her co-blogger Kathryn open up the conversation to demystify and encourage pattern cutting with humour and insight. Of course I am a fan of anyone championing the cause and recommend them to you.   ​Keep well everyone, Maggie 
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Fashionhalfcut.co.uk  is where you will find the blog.
Check out Episode 3 to see what Caroline thinks of Workbook 1, as one of her top 5 pattern cutting books

Notches

29/6/2017

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We all know that notches are important. I think of notches, grain line and seam allowances as an international language embedded into the pattern. Without anything written in text the pattern can still be 'read' by these symbols. I have a set of conventions that seem to have served me well over the years but I would like to know how others use notches. Can there be too many notches? What are your most useful tips to help the machinist. How do you use them? These are my guidelines.
There are two types of notches - Seam value and Balance marks.
Seam value notches are only put in one direction at a corner, on the seam that will be sewn first. Two nips, one in each direction of the corner will weaken the fabric. The exception is at the hem when the hem value is 4cm or more.

Balance marks are there to show how the garment goes together and must be completely unambiguous. So only put a notch in the center of a seam line if it really is the center, such as CB or CF. In this way a panel cannot be put in up-side-down.

Convention puts single notches toward the front and double at the back. Think of the sleevehead. So what happens when there are lots of panels? I use singles in varying spacing toward the front and a triple if I really need to at the back.

Double notches must be at least 12mm (1/2") apart, again so that the fabric is not weakened. But spacing them at say 2cm or 3cm gives a variation to the double notch.
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Long seams need a few singles along the way to help the machinist avoid stretching and easing.
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    Maggie Stott has worked in the patten cutting industry for over 40 years. She is a specialist in both traditional and digital pattern cutting. 

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  • Home
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